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Aevum Vita 525 | ISCA UK Ltd
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Aevum Vita 525
Rheology Modifier
INCI: ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate

Aevum Vita 525 is an anionic thickener, supplied as a powder. It can be used to create crystal clear gels, or medium viscosity emulsions with a silky soft feel. In surfactant-based formulations, it provides enhanced foam stability, and it has excellent electrolyte resistance. Easily dispersed, Aevum Vita 525 is suitable for hot or cold processes, across a wide pH range.

ISCA have formulated Aevum Vita 525 in prototype products such as serums, facial gels and formulations which require suspended ingredients.

Luxurious Skin Feel
Clear Gels
Rheology
Stabilisation
Natural Compliant
Recommended Dosage
IN USE CONCENTRATIONS ISCA RECOMMENDATION EU COSMETIC REGULATION (MAX)
LEAVE ON 2.0 - 4.0 % NO LIMIT
RINSE OFF 2.0 - 4.0 % NO LIMIT
In use concentrations vary according to the formulation type and the other ingredients present. The correct use dosage should be determined by microbial challenge testing of the finished formulation. ISCA UK offers discounted challenge testing to our customers.
Recommended Applications
SHAMPOO, SHOWER GEL (RINSE-OFF) W/O EMULSIONS ORAL CARE
CREAM, LOTION
(LEAVE-ON)
WET WIPES EYE CARE
O/W EMULSION LIP CARE CHILDREN UNDER 3
Use scenarios derived from evolution of cosmetic regulation guidelines and preservative performance for typical formulations.
Overview Documentation

Documents related to Aevum Vita 525 available for download.

If you require other material or statements, please do not hesitate to contact us.

Formulation

Our aloe vera and menthol cooling gel uses 1.5% Aevum Vita 525 to achieve an easy-to-apply and hydrated gel, perfect for reducing heat from the skin.

Example Prototype Formulation 1

Cooling Aloe Vera and Menthol Gel

INGREDIENT %
Aqua 87.5
Ocimum Basilicum (basil) leaf oil 5.0
Isopropyl Alcohol 2.0
Propylene Glycol 1.5
Aevum Vita 525 1.5
Iscaguard PEG 1.0
Menthol 0.5
Polysorbate 20 0.5
Glycerin 0.25
Lavandula Angustifolia Oil 0.1
Citrus Limon Peel Oil 0.1
Tocopherol 0.05
Formulation

Our caffeine and hyaluronic acid gel uses 2.0% Aevum Vita 525 to achieve a hydrating gel which is able to incorporate key ingredients and salt-based preservatives, without resulting in a loss of viscosity or sensory benefit.

Adjusted to pH 4.9 using citric acid

Example Prototype Formulation 2

Awakening Caffeine Eye Serum

INGREDIENT %
Aqua 94.9
Aevum Vita 525 2.0
Aquaguard NK12 1.0
Aevum Vita 167 0.5
Squalene 0.5
Dimethyl Sulfone (MSM) 0.5
Sodium Hyaluronate 0.5
Caffeine 0.1
Cosmetic Formulations

Video Tutorials

VIDEO 1:
INTRODUCTION OF Aevum Vita 525

Aevum Vita 525 is an anionic thickener which shows high compatibility with most cosmetic ingredients. A brief and overall summary of the behaviour of Aevum Vita 525 is given.

Aevum Vita 525
VIDEO 2: How to Disperse Aevum Vita 525

Aevum Vita 525 is suppled as a white powder. To use Aevum Vita 525, add the thickener to the formulation slowly and portion wise, and disperse under medium shear conditions. Maximum viscosity build is achieved after stirring for approximately 15 to 30 minutes.

Aevum Vita 525 can be added at any point and is suitable for hot or cold processes.

Aevum Vita 525
Sensory Testing

Sensory testing for 15 volunteers showed that the caffeine eye gel formulation was positively received. Volunteers rated the formulation based on 5 factors.

 

STICKINESS 1 - VERY STICKY,
10 - NOT STICKY
ABSORPTION 1 - DOES NOT ABSORB WELL,
10 - ABSORBS VERY WELL
SKIN HYDRATION 1 - SKIN DOES NOT FEEL HYDRATED,
10 - SKIN FEELS WELL HYDRATED
EFFECTIVENESS - AGAINST LINES,
TIREDNESS, PUFFINESS
1 - NOT AN EFFECTIVE EYE SERUM,
10 - EFFECTIVE EYE SERUM
AFTER FEEL 1 - UNPLEASANT AFTER FEEL,
10 - PLEASANT AFTER FEEL
Aevum Vita 525 sensory testing
Aevum Vita 525 foaming Aevum Vita 525 foaming
Skin Hydration

Skin hydration was measured using a Corneometer® CM 82. Based on the average of triplicate readings, our eye gel gave 206% increase in skin hydration after 5 minutes, and 130% after 10 minutes.

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