Aevum Vita 328 is a naturally derived multifunctional cosmetic ingredient, ideal for use in ecolabel approved formulations. It’s a skin conditioning agent containing plant based analogs of widely used substances such ethylhexylglycerin and pentylene glycol, alongside hinokitiol: an ingredient with recognised anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties.
This optimised combination of emollients allows the creation of modern, quickly absorbed, non-tacky formulations that exhibit excellent moisturisation and humectancy. Additionally, the inherent antimicrobial properties of the ingredients, allows formulators to create “self-preserving” cosmetics.
| IN USE CONCENTRATIONS | ISCA RECOMMENDATION | EU COSMETIC REGULATION (MAX) |
|---|---|---|
| LEAVE ON | 0.7 - 1.4 % | no limit |
| RINSE OFF | 0.7 - 1.4 % | no limit |
| SHAMPOO, SHOWER GEL (RINSE-OFF) | ✓ | Deodorants | ✓ | Oral Care | |
| CREAM, LOTION (LEAVE-ON) |
✓ | Wet wipes | ✓ | Eye Care | ✓ |
| Hair care | ✓ | Lip Care | ✓ | CHILDREN UNDER 3 | ✓ |
Documents related to Aevum Vita 328 are available to download.
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A range of example formulations using Aevum Vita 328 have been developed and microbiologically evaluated. Our formulations demonstrate high versatility
and compatibility across many product types.
Free Spirit Calming Body Mist
| INGREDIENT | % |
|---|---|
| Aqua | 78.4 |
| Polysorbate-20 | 10.0 |
| Rosa Damascena Flower Water | 8.0 |
| Aevum Vita 328 | 1.5 |
| Anthemis nobilis (Roman Chamomile) Floral Water | 1.0 |
| Citrus Aurantium Bergamia (Bergamot) Fruit Oil | 0.5 |
| Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Oil | 0.5 |
| Geraniol | 0.1 |
| Citric Acid/Sodium Hydroxide to pH 3.22 | q.s. |
Even in formulations with high essential oil content and water activity, Aevum Vita 328 at 1.5% is enough to provide the formulation with protection against microbial growth.
Pro-Vitamin Balancing Serum
| INGREDIENT | % |
|---|---|
| Aqua | 79.0 |
| Rosa Damascena Flower Water | 10.0 |
| Niacinamide | 5.0 |
| Panthenol | 3.0 |
| Aevum Vita 525 | 1.5 |
| Aevum Vita 328 | 1.0 |
| Allantoin | 0.5 |
| Citric Acid/Sodium Hydroxide to pH 3.88 | q.s. |
Aevum Vita 313 provides humectancy and enhanced sensory benefits due to the blend of emollients.
The self-preserving properties of this formulation have been undoubtedly proven as the result of utilizing Aevum Vita 328 at 1.0%. Control studies omitting Aevum Vita 328, resulted in a failed EP challenge test.
Additionally, this serum has been assessed in a time-kill test (based on ASTM E2315 (2016)) against C. acnes for its suitability as an anti-acne product.
This formulation resulted in a 99.99% reduction in C. acnes within 30 seconds. This demonstrates suitability towards both rinse-off and leave-on products.
| Time | % Reduction |
|---|---|
| 30 seconds | 99.99 |
| 2 minutes | 99.99 |
| 1 hour | 99.99 |
| 4 hours | 99.99 |
Nourishing Ceramide Hand Cream
| INGREDIENT | % |
|---|---|
| Aqua | 66.1 |
| Mangifera Indica Seed Butter | 8.0 |
| Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil | 7.0 |
| Glyceryl Stearate SE | 5.0 |
| Glycerin | 3.0 |
| Aevum Vita 525 | 3.0 |
| Dimethyl Sulfone | 3.0 |
| Glucosamine | 3.0 |
| Aevum Vita 328 | 1.5 |
| Tocopherol | 0.2 |
| Ceramide | 0.2 |
| Citric Acid/Sodium Hydroxide to pH 3.0 | q.s. |
Anti-fungal Squalene Foot Cream
| INGREDIENT | % |
|---|---|
| Aqua | 79.3 |
| Mangifera Indica Seed Butter | 8.0 |
| Glyceryl Stearate SE | 5.0 |
| Aevum Vita 525 | 3.0 |
| Glycerin | 2.0 |
| Glyceryl Oleate | 1.0 |
| Aevum Vita 328 | 1.0 |
| Squalene | 0.5 |
| Tocopherol | 0.2 |
| Citric Acid to pH 3.0 | q.s. |
This leave-on formulation was tested against T. rubrum, the fungus responsible for Athlete’s foot.
In a time-kill suspension test based on ASTM E2315 (2016) method, this squalane foot cream gives a 99% reduction of T. rubrum in 60 minutes.
Further work to achieve a 4-log reduction would be required, although at just 1% Aevum Vita 328, this shows potential for use in such applications.
Anti-bacterial Mental Clarity Shower Gel
| INGREDIENT | % |
|---|---|
| Aqua | 54.75 |
| Sodium Lauryl Sulfate | 20.00 |
| Cocoamidopropyl Betaine (30%) | 10.00 |
| Lauryl Glucoside | 7.00 |
| Glycerin | 5.25 |
| Rubus Idaeus Seed Oil | 1.00 |
| Aevum Vita 328 | 1.00 |
| Mental Clarity Essential Oil Blend* | 0.50 |
| Propylene Glycol | 0.50 |
| Citric Acid to pH 3.69 | q.s. |
Aevum Vita 328 provides a natural and gentle, yet effective, alternative to commercial active ingredients for anti-bacterial products.
In anti-microbial kill-tests, Aevum Vita 328 has proven powerful against cultures of mixed bacteria, giving anti-bacterial results comparable to commercial active ingredients, such as triclosan and o-phenylphenol.
| Contact Time | % Reduction |
|---|---|
| 30 seconds | 4 log reduction - 99.99 |
| 60 seconds | 4 log reduction - 99.99 |
Arrowroot Deodorant Balm
| INGREDIENT | % |
|---|---|
| Arrowroot Powder | 30.0 |
| Mangifera Indica Seed Butter | 20.0 |
| Polysorbate-20 | 15.0 |
| PEG-40 Castor Oil | 10.0 |
| Cetearyl Alcohol | 8.0 |
| Apricot Kernel Oil | 7.0 |
| Glyceryl Stearate S/E | 5.0 |
| Tapioca Starch | 3.0 |
| Aevum Vita 328 | 2.0 |
This formulation was tested in a time -kill suspension test against Staphylococcus hominis (S. hominis), a common bacteria associated with the production of odor in sweat.
Using Aevum Vita 328 at 2.0% gave a reduction S. hominis. The formulation demonstrates potential for Aevum Vita 328 to not only provide microbial protection over time, but also to synergistically enhance the effectiveness of other active deodorising ingredients.
| Contact Time | % Reduction |
|---|---|
| 5 minutes | 89.23 |
| 4 hours | 92.56 |
Chamomile and Witch Hazel Intimate Wash
| INGREDIENT | % |
|---|---|
| Aqua | 67.23 |
| Cocoamidopropyl Betaine (30%) | 16.67 |
| Sodium Lauryl Sulfate | 7.00 |
| Cocoglucoside | 3.00 |
| Hamamelis Virginiana Water | 2.50 |
| Lauryl Glucoside | 1.00 |
| Aevum Vita 328 | 1.00 |
| Glycerin | 0.50 |
| Glyceryl Oleate | 0.50 |
| Anthemis Nobilis Flower Oil | 0.50 |
| Lactic Acid (88%) | 0.1 |
| Citric Acid to pH 3.56 | q.s. |
Aevum Vita 328 provides a natural and gentle alternative to commercial active ingredients for feminine hygiene products.
In anti-microbial kill-tests, Aevum Vita 328 has demonstrated activity against Candida albicans.
Further formulation work could see an increase in percentage reductions at the lowest contact times.
| Contact Time | % Reduction |
|---|---|
| 30 seconds | 83% |
| 120 seconds | 85% |
| 180 seconds | 86% |
Anti-Acne Beta-Carotene Face Wash
| INGREDIENT | % |
|---|---|
| Aqua | 61.23 |
| Cocoamidopropyl Betaine (30%) | 16.67 |
| Sodium Lauryl Sulfate | 10.00 |
| Decyl Glucoside | 2.50 |
| Niacinamide | 2.00 |
| Hamamelis Virginiana Water | 2.00 |
| Sodium Chloride | 2.00 |
| Aevum Vita 328 | 1.00 |
| Lauryl Glucoside | 1.00 |
| Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice | 0.60 |
| Daucus Carota Sativa (Carrot) Seed Oil | 0.50 |
| Glycerin | 0.50 |
| Citric Acid to pH | q.s. |
Aevum Vita 328 provides a natural and gentle, yet effective, alternative to commercial active ingredients for anti-acne products.
In anti-microbial kill-tests, Aevum Vita 328 has proven powerful against the bacteria C. acnes, achieving a 3-log reduction within 60 seconds, and a 4-log reduction within 120 seconds contact time.
| Contact Time | % Reduction |
|---|---|
| 60 seconds | >99.9% |
| 120 seconds | 99.99% |
| 180 seconds | 99.99% |
Revitalising Apple and Mint Shampoo
| INGREDIENT | % |
|---|---|
| Aqua | 48.6 |
| Sodium Lauryl Sulfate | 20.0 |
| Cocoamidopropyl Betaine (30%) | 10.0 |
| Lauryl Glucoside | 8.0 |
| Glycerin | 6.0 |
| Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract | 5.5 |
| Aevum Vita 328 | 1.0 |
| Propylene Glycol | 0.5 |
| Mentha Spicata (Spearmint) Oil | 0.4 |
Citric Acid to pH 3.6 |
q.s. |
Aevum Vita 328 at 1% provides a natural and gentle alternative to commercial active ingredients for transparent anti-dandruff products.
In anti-microbial kill-tests, Aevum Vita 328 has proven powerful against the fungi M. furfur, a fungi responsible for the formation of dandruff.
Further formulation work could see an increase in percentage reductions at the lowest contact times.
| Contact Time | % Reduction |
|---|---|
| 60 seconds | 94% |
| 120 seconds | 96% |
| 180 seconds | 99% |
Soothing Elderflower and Iris Toner
| INGREDIENT | % |
|---|---|
| Aqua | 92.25 |
| Niacinamide | 5.0 |
| Aevum Vita 328 | 2.0 |
| Propylene Glycol | 0.50 |
| Elderflower and Iris Fragrance Oil | 0.25 |
| Citric Acid to pH 3.97 | q.s. |
Aevum Vita 328 provides a gentle sensory properties and has shown to be compatible to commonly used preservative systems.
“ “…Nice fragrance, light, hydrating and absorbed fast… ”
Blind product testing compared a liquid toner containing Aevum Vita 328 against three other formulations, where only the preservative system differed.
Average rankings showed that all four formulations were comparable, demonstrating Aevum Vita 328’s high potential and compatibility to replace current preservative systems.
